Folk Culture

Miosotis Wong in a Yukata -side view showing Obi

A view of the obi worn by men. Note the different method of tying and wearing of the knot on the side.

The usual kimono material comes in widths of fourteen inches and lengths of ten yards or longer. The material is usually silk damask, brocade, crepe, cotton or blends. Obi material is twenty-four inches wide and eleven feet in length, or longer, and a rather stiff fabric.

When cutting a kimono, it is easier if you cut your material in widths of fourteen inches before laying out the pattern. The length of a kimono is five or more inches longer than the wearer’s height. the short wing sleeve for the woman’s kimono is laid out on thirty-six inch lengths and is finished to seventeen inches from the top of the shoulder to the hem. The furisode (long sleeves) are three inches shorter than the kimono hem.

The kimono may be lined, especially the first (outside) kimono. Often the seams are wadded to give the effect of many layers. All silk kimonos are lined. The yukata, a cotton summer kimono is not lined. The obi is interlined if the material is not stiff.

Three kimono are usually worn. The first can have a design or pattern. The second has a white band at the neck and is often made in two pieces, bodice and shirt, and of two materials. The third kimono with straight sleeves is often red, especially for a geisha or in Kabuki. The kimono is wrapped, the left overlapping the right. A tie belt of the same material, fifty-two inches in length is used to close the kimono.